The day started off EARLY, like 7:30 departure time early. The bus ride took about an hour and a half, and along the way we watched a History Channel documentary on the Korean War, Panmunjeom (the JSA) and the history of the DMZ. So interesting! Lets just say though that I'm glad we resolved our civil war - a 60 year war really stinks. Just sayin. There is all this tension!
Once we finished the movie, we arrived at Imjingak, which is the closest place to North Korea most people can get to. Its almost too touristy for me, but it was a nice place to start our tour. At Imjingak there was a train engine that was destroyed in the Korean War, and tons of peace prayer ribbons along a fence - very moving. I found that throughout the day the theme in South Korea was hoping for peace, and there were many places dedicated to families that were divided after the war. Imjingak was a great place to start, because it was a good transition into thinking about how people in Korea have been affected by the war, even 60 years later.
A peace ribbon wall - what a contrasting image!
After the short stop at Imjingak, it was back to the bus to go to Mt. Odu Observation Point, an overlook over a river that looks north to North Korea, and allows visitors to "observe" life in North Korea. Basically, they have those telescope things that you put change in and can see to North Korea and watch farmers work and "see the life of North Koreans". They had a video explaining what we were looking at, and a map. Then downstairs they had displays of typical North Korean dress, goods, exports and imports, etc. They also had a display of a typical classroom and living room. Can you say 1950!???? Literally, everything looked like it was from 1950. Crazy, but probably true. They don't even have internet access! We had lunch here, and it was another tasty one :) A Korean buffet! I had everything, and it was all superb. The only bad thing about Mt. Odu was the gift shop. It said that all of the goods were made in North Korea. Now, I know that we want peace, but I have a problem with this because they clearly violate hundreds of international law with arms dealing and nuclear testing/possession of nuclear weapons, and I don't like that we want to support that...but hey I guess if other people do its their business. I just thought it was a little much.
Our first view of North Korea
Typical North Korean dress
After Mt. Odu, it was again a bus ride, this time to Dorasan Train Station. In 2002, President Bush visited it, so I guess it is kind of a big deal. The train station was built by the South Korean president back in 2002 to show North Korea its move toward peace. South Korea extended its rail from Seoul, its capital, all the way to the DMZ. Their hope is that North Korea will eventually connect the line and travel between Seoul and Pyongyang, North Korea's capital. Then, they could connect to the trans-Asian railroad, and you could theoretically travel all the way from South Korea to Europe by train - no thank you (it would take like, 10 days!) This was another kind of touristy spot, because it doesn't really serve a purpose yet. I guess the main point is that South Korea continues to work for peace, and keeps putting the ball in North Korea's court...
One day this might be true...
When we got back on the bus, we were on our way to the best part of the day - the JSA! You could tell right away when we got there because we were on a military base, and the mood suddenly changed too. We had to switch buses because our tour bus wasn't allowed past the gate, and of course we had our military IDs checked to make sure we were legit. When we got on the bus, they reminded us of the dress code that we had been informed of before the trip. Because we were going to be visible to North Koreans, they wanted us to look respectable - no t-shirts or flip-flops and such. However, open toed shoes were fine, so Mom, Katie, and I all wore skirts with sandals, while Dad and Matt wore polos with jeans and tennis shoes. Well, when we got on the bus they said that anyone with open toed shoes had to stay on the bus and couldn't go to the JSA area, and into T2, the building where all armistice talks are. Basically, we couldn't do what we were all so excited to do. Well, after hearing that we all got really down, literally our mood deflated. We were so confused! Why would the sheet of paper say that open toed shoes were OK if it was a violation of the armistice agreement?? Needless to say, we went into the visit briefing upset, and we tried everything we could to see what could be done.
My official badge - I passed the security clearance ;)
When we got on the bus to go to the JSA from Camp Bonifas (we were allowed to go on the bus, just not get off it) Dad gave Mom his shoes and then Katie and I borrowed the tour guides shoes...OK so problem somewhat solved, now that Mom and Katie and I had shoes, but Dad did not. Unfortunately, Dad wasn't able to join us, he sat in the bus while we went into T2, where they have the armistice talks, and thus where we ventured into North Korea. His reasoning was that he was going to do the tour again because he was there and could, so we all made sure to enjoy it for him :)
Let me tell you - it was intense going to the JSA. First they have you divide into two groups and line up in two lines. Then, both groups go up the stairs and to the "patio". Then, one group gets to cross the road into T2. Through all of this, you're surrounded on all sides (literally) by Republic of Korea (ROK) soldiers. Inside T2, there are even more ROK soldiers. Our guide (one of the soldiers stationed at Camp Bonifas) went through the shpiel on the armistice talks, and how if you go past the microphones (which divide the table in the exact middle of the room into two sections) you are officially in North Korea. Of course, we all crossed over to that side of the room and got pictures of us in North Korea - and I totally broke a rule with the Learning Abroad center that day. I signed a sheet saying I wouldn't go to a country that is on the US's "no travel" list...I guess because I was escorted I was OK ;)
Crossing into North Korea - notice the microphones and the ROK soldier!
In North Korea - only protected by the soldier behind us!
Just a side note - North Korea apparently gives tours of T2 as well, and the soldier told us that when they do, their tour guides take their shoes off and stand on top of South Korea's table, almost mocking them. You can even see the footprint! No joke, he was serious, but the picture didn't turn out too well.
After our group was finished inside T2, the other group got to go in, and we were allowed to stand outside and face North Korea, and take pictures. There was a soldier across the way that kept pacing pack and forth and watching us, and our guide told us that there was a tower they used to monitor us. We had to make sure not to make any gestures or do anything that might possibly provoke the North Koreans - yeah, not going to lie it was intimidating.
The blue buildings are owned by the UN, the silver by North Korea
When we ventured back to the bus (OK marched) we rejoined my Dad and then the bus drove around the road to T2, so Dad could see what we did as well. We then did a bus tour of the DMZ, and the JSA specifically, showing us the spots of the axe murder incident, the bridge of no return, and the city that is allowed to be in the DMZ according to the armistice agreement. A funny side story about North Korea's city that is in the DMZ (they're each allowed one). ROK soldiers and most people call the town in the DMZ that North Korea has "Propaganda Village" because the "residents" of the village don't actually live there - they get bussed in and out every day. Also, When Freedom Village (South Korea's town in the DMZ) started flying a South Korean flag, a twice as tall flag pole was constructed in Propaganda Village...this is apparently a trend at the DMZ. They had to edit the armistice agreement so that all of the buildings owned by North and South Korea were the same height, because it was a continuous building fiasco ;) All in all, this was my favorite part of the trip by far. How many people in the world can say they've been to the JSA? Not many.
By this time, the day was wearing on, and after the JSA we drove to our final destination - DMZ tunnel #3. It was a tunnel discovered by South Korea that North Korea had dug to attack South Korea, and was one of several tunnels South Korea discovered by water holes. Don't ask me how that worked, its confusing but very cool :) The tunnel was fun, to get down we had to walk down a steep ramp about 500m...and at the end we had to walk back up it! Once we got to the tunnel we just walked it for a while, it had interesting facts posted about the tunnel and showed where the dynamite marks in the wall were, proving that North Korea dug the tunnel. At the end there was a HUGE door, obviously they didn't want anyone getting out of the tunnel in North Korea ;)
At the start of the descent down - hard hats and all!
All in all, it was a GREAT experience that I'll never forget. Being around the DMZ really put the Korean War into perspective for me, and I really appreciate how lucky we are in the US to be able to solve things diplomatically...or at least without a lot of bloodshed!
Hasta luego....
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